Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint


Colors

Trophy - A warm, rich gray with yellow undertones. Unlike Shutter Gray, which is very blue, Trophy is a truer gray reminiscent of tarnished silver found on antique trophies.

Apron Strings - A raspberry/coral color named by one of Marian’s blog readers.  She remembered her grandmother wearing a coral apron and Marian loved the story she shared and the feelings evoked by the name. When mixed with Ironstone, beautiful shades of coral can be found.

Curio - A rich, walnut brown that is perfect to use as a glaze or stain.  It’s also a great color to use for mixing with other colors. Pair Curio with a lightened version of Apron Strings for a classic brown and pink pairing.

Boxwood - A rich, dark grassy green.  Depending on the finish used on the piece, it can look bright and bold or subtle, more like a muted olive. Boxwood mixes well with Grain Sack to create a pale aqua.  Layer under Lucketts Green for a two-toned, monochromatic look.

Typewriter - This black in Miss Mustard Seed's line.  Marian describes it as an off-black or soft black. It is named for the black color traditionally found on antique typewriters. Mix Typewriter with any of the colors in the line to make them darker and more muted.  For example, when mixed with Boxwood, a deep olive green can be achieved.  Mix it with Grain Sack to make a perfect charcoal gray.

Shutter Gray -  A French blue/gray that has a faded quality about it.  It’s named for a pair of antique gray shutters Marian found at an antique store. For a pale blue gray, mix Shutter Gray with Grain Sack.  It pairs well with Mustard Seed Yellow and Linen.

Dried Lavender -  A soft, smoky purple with gray undertones.  Marian has sold dried lavender stems in her retail spaces for years, so when adding a purple to this line that was a natural connection. Mix Dried Lavender with Linen for a pale pastel purple, and it pairs beautifully with Lucketts Green.

Linen -  Linen is the cream in the line.  Named for linen fabrics that have slightly yellowed with age, this color has warm undertones and is a nice, creamy white. Mix Linen with colors to make the color lighter and warmer.  Linen mixes and pairs beautifully with Apron Strings and Kitchen Scale.

Lucketts Green - This color is named after the color of the shingled siding on The Old Lucketts Store in Lucketts, Virginia. Lucketts Green is a soft, spring green with yellow undertones. It’s very close to the color commonly found on furniture in the 1930’s and 1940’s, making it the perfect vintage green. Mix with Boxwood to make a bright, grassy green or with Linen for a pale pastel.  For a nice contrast, Lucketts Green pairs well with Artissimo and Dried Lavender.

Tricycle -  This is the perfect red.  It’s bold and bright, but still has a warm, classic look to it. Mix it with Ironstone to get varying shades of pink and with Curio to make a deeper barn red.

Kitchen Scale - A rich teal, named after an antique scale Marian once owned in her kitchen. The scale has since been passed along to Jennylyn, the president of Homestead. House Paint Co. Kitchen Scale can be mixed with Linen to achieve a soft, robin’s egg blue.  It pairs well with Grain Sack.

Mustard Seed Yellow - A warm, buttery yellow.  It’s bright without being too bold and it’s a perfect “happy yellow.” Mix it with Tricycle for varying shades of coral.  It pairs well with Shutter Gray and Lucketts Green.

French Enamel -  This color is named for the French enamelware pitchers Marian has always admired in antique stores and magazines.  The color is a vibrant, mid-tone blue. Mix it with Tricycle for a vibrant purple or Typewriter for a darker, more muted blue.  It pairs well with Flow Blue and Mustard Seed Yellow.

Grain Sack -  This color was named for the color of antique European grain sacks.  It’s a chameleon color, meaning it looks different depending on what is around it.  Sometimes it looks white, sometimes gray and sometimes more beige. Grain Sack is a great color to mix in order to lighten without making the color too pastel.  It pairs well with the other grays in the line – Shutter Gray and Trophy.

Ironstone - This is the closest to a pure white currently in the line. This color is a slightly cooler off-white and pulls a little gray. If you want white, this is your color. Mix Ironstone with colors to lighten.  Obviously, white pairs well with everything!

Eulalie's Sky -  A pale greenish-blue named after the color in the sky of a cow painting by artist Cindy Austin.  Marian named the cow Eulalie and she has hung happily in her home for several years and has become a trademark of Marian’s style. This color pairs well with Linen and Kitchen Scale.

Flow Blue - A rich blue that’s deeper than French Enamel, but not as dark as Artissimo.  It’s named after the blues found on antique “flow blue” china. Marian loves Flow Blue layered under French Enamel for a two-toned finish.  It pairs well with Boxwood.

Artissimo -  A navy/midnight blue named for the blue and white fabric Marian used in her master suite. Depending on the finish, it can look like a brighter royal blue or almost black. Artissimo pairs well with Boxwood and the other blues in our line.

 

 


MMSMP

What is Milk Paint?

It’s a powdered, all natural paint (no VOC’s) that has been around for thousands of years.  It was found in the pyramids in Egypt and on ancient cave paintings.  It’s been used in America for years on furniture, walls, barns, etc.  It is a versatile paint that can be used to achieve a variety of looks from chippy and distressed to smooth and sleek.

 

Is Milk Paint Safe?

Yes! Milk Paint is made from 100% natural ingredients. It’s a powdered, no VOC’s product that can be traced back all the way to ancient carvings and art. It is safe for children’s furniture, painting projects indoors and use during pregnancy. It is made of only five natural ingredients – clay, limestone, chalk, casein (milk protein) and iron oxides for pigments.

 

What is the Best Way to Mix Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint?

There are many ways to mix the milk paint, MMSMP offers guidelines on how to mix it and what consistency to look for, however we encourage to always test out a small amount to make sure that you are happy with the mixture. Milk Paint can be a stain or a solid opaque paint depending on how much water you add.

For a solid opaque look: Mix one part water to one part Milk Paint powder. Add water to container/jar first, then add powder and mix with a whisk, electric milk frother or blender. For a super smooth finish,use a blender for best results, otherwise mix with a frother or a whisk for an additional 1-2 minutes for a super fine mix. Mixed Milk Paint should have a table cream consistency for opaque coverage. Once satisfied with consistency, test out a small sample to see if desired consistency is reached. If the brush drags, the mixture is too thick (opaque) and you need to add more water.  If sample drips and is too thin (transparent), then add more powder. Adjust as required, and start painting!

Note: Mixing Milk Paint can be like baking bread and the amount of water required will vary based on the humidity of the day and location.  It can also vary depending on the amount of pigment in the color being mixed.

 

Milk Paint Coverage

This depends on the surface being painted and how much water is added when mixing. The paint coverage will be different on bare wood and porous vs. shiny, previously coated pieces that require the bonding agent. Typically one quart of a very light white will cover approximately 50-70 sq ft, whereas a darker color will cover 70 + sq ft. For example, one quart will cover a large armoire/hutch OR a dresser and two side tables.

 

Lumpy & Uneven Milk Paint?

The majority of the texture and application issues lie in the method the Milk Paint was mixed. A good mix is key to a great finish. Make sure you are stirring your Milk Paint until most of the paint is dissolved. A mini whisk, milk frother, or blender are great tools for smooth mixes. Let the paint sit for a few minutes after mixing to allow limestone and clay dissolve. If you are painting a large project, stir the paint every few minutes to prevent clay from settling and pigments from separating and dip your brush all the way to the bottom of the container. The paint at the top will be thinner and more translucent, especially if a frother was used to mix paint. Some lumpiness is normal and will usually brush out once paint is applied. Small lumps can be smoothed out with a fine sand paper after it’s dry, and can lead to some unique finishes!

Here are some additional tips on properly mixing Milk Paint: http://www.alldolledupwichita.com/mixing-milkpaint/

 

Milk Paint on Raw Wood

Yes, it’s one of the best paints for raw wood. It acts like a stain, but looks like a paint.  The color will penetrate the wood for a lasting finish that won’t chip or flake. This makes it an ideal paint for raw wood cabinets or floors.

 

When Should I Use Bonding Agent?

When the surface is previously finished, painted with a non-porous paint or sealed. Milk paint will resist and chip if it cannot be absorbed, as it is in porous surfaces and raw wood. The ratios of bonding agent can be adjusted depending on the amount of seal or shine on the piece being painted. Do not use the bonding agent or use it in select areas if a “chippy” look is desired.  Remember that painting a pre-finished without sanding and/or using the Bonding Agent is unpredictable!  Here is a tutorial on using the bonding agent: http://www.alldolledupwichita.com/bonding-agent/

 

The "Chippy" Look

The chippy look is one of the most popular finishes for Milk Paint, but it can sometimes be a bit tricky to accomplish. Here are some things to consider when trying to achieve this look:

  • The finish on which you are painting: is it sealed, shiney, or painted?  If it is raw wood or porous, the Milk Paint will be absorbed and will not chip or flake.  A resist, like the Wax Puck or Hemp Oil needs to be used.

  • Milk Paint will “resist” surfaces in which it can’t be absorbed. This resisting will create chips and flakes. It is possible for the milk paint to flake away from the entire piece if the surface is too slick and doesn’t have any “tooth”. To achieve some “grip”, sand where you want adhesion or add the bonding agent on areas where more coverage is desired.  It may take some trial and error, but Milk Paint is the only paint that will create an authentic, chippy finish, so it’s worth trying!

 

Creating the Chippy Look

If you want the Milk Paint to resist certain areas, we recommend trying an advanced technique by using the Hemp Oil or Wax Pucks. Simply apply the Hemp Oil generously in areas where chipping is desired. Apply the paint immediately over entire surface. The paint will look will separate and pool some on the areas where oil was applied. Don’t over work the paint on those areas. As paint dries, it will start to peel and flake, creating and authentic, chipped finish.  Wipe or light sand loose paint and finish with any MMS Wax or Hemp Oil.

To use the Wax Puck as a resist, apply one coat of milk paint and allow it to dry.  Rub the Wax Puck over the edges, corners and “high points” of the piece.  Anywhere the wax is applied will resist the paint, so make sure it is applied randomly and in places where paint would naturally wear over time.  Apply a second coat of milk paint and allow it to dry completely.  Distress surface with fine grit sand paper or damp cotton cloth to easily remove the paint where wax was applied. revealing first coat underneath.  Finish with Furniture Wax, Hemp Oil, White Wax or Antiquing Wax.

Both give authentic aged patinas! We highly recommend taking a workshop from a certified MMSMP retailer in your area.

 

Preventing More Chip

Super chippy pieces will need a coat of polycrylic (water based polyurethane) to prevent future chipping. Do not use hemp oil on these finishes as the oil may cause it to continue chipping.

If the piece chipped some, all of the loose paint has been removed and the rest is adhering well, the Furniture Wax, Antiquing Wax or White Wax will provide a wonderful finish. The piece will not continue to chip unless exposed to intense sunlight or extreme heat.

 

The Crackle Effect

Paint your piece and apply direct heat immediately after coating (such as a blow dryer or heat gun) to areas you want to crackle. This is a really easy, natural crackle to achieve without having to use a crackle medium product.

 

What is Furniture Wax?

Furniture Wax is used as a protective topcoat. It’s similar to other waxes on the market, except it’s creamier and very low odor.

Apply it to a piece of raw wood, stained wood or painted furniture with a cloth or brush.  Buff after about 5-10 minutes. Apply additional coats for a higher sheen and more durability.

 

Is wax a durable finish?

YES, it’s a very durable finish. If it’s marred, just lightly sand and add another coat of wax.  Refinishing the entire piece is not required. I have it on my kitchen table and it has held up beautifully to two young boys!

 

What’s the Difference Between Antiquing Wax & Furniture Wax?

Antiquing wax has dark pigment in it that will age and darken your paint. Furniture wax will dry clear and give your colors the richness that they need after they dry. Here are a couple of posts about using the antiquing wax: http://missmustardseed.com/2013/06/painted-bar-stool-tutorial-part-2/http://missmustardseed.com/2013/06/antiquing-wax-tutorial/

 

What is Hemp Oil?

Hemp Oil is a finish that is a nice alternative to the wax.  It is all natural, so it’s great for people who are sensitive to chemicals.  Hemp Oil is best when it’s applied to a porous surface (like raw wood, stained wood or Milk Painted raw wood.)  It will absorb into the surface, creating a durable finish.  It can be used over Milk Paint over an old finish as well, though.  Wipe on with a clean cloth, wipe away excess.  Apply additional coats for more shine and durability.  This is also a great product to revive dry, tired wood.

 

Using Hemp Oil vs. Wax?

As stated above, Hemp Oil is 100% natural,so it’s the ideal finish for customers who love and use Milk Paint because it’s all natural.  It’s a food safe finish that can be used on cutting boards, butcher blog counters and kitchen tables.  Hemp Oil is also great for projects that will be used outside. Once it cures (after approximately 30 days), it protects and wears beautifully in the elements. Wax will break down and emulsify in the heat. We do not recommend waxing pieces that will be in the heat, sun or rain.

For an extra durable interior top coat, apply a coat of Hemp Oil and let dry, then apply wax on top. Remember wax over oil, never oil over wax!

 

Do I Have to Prime Before Using Milk Paint?

No.  You can simply apply the bonding agent to the first coat of paint.  That will make the first coat act almost like a colored primer.  You do not need to add the bonding agent to the second coat. If the “chippy” look is desired, do not use the bonding agent and do not prep the piece.  (Watch the video on Getting the “Chippy” Look on the tutorials page.